Before purchasing this set of Winmax brakes, the only other aftermarket pad I have tried was the Hawk HPS. I did a couple years of autocross and 2 track days on them, along with a ton of daily driving. They were fine I guess, they did their job but didn't have a noticeable difference from the OE pads. I had worn the Hawks down to 3mm right about when everyone was raving about the Winmax W3's. So I contacted a Winmax representative and let them recommend a full set for my application. They decided on the W4 pads for the front and the WRS-1 shoes for the rear.
The install for the front pads is pretty standard; use a new or resurfaced rotor, clean and lubricate the pad carrier and sliders, install the pads properly, compress caliper piston and install, then torque fasteners. I already have the stainless steel braided brake lines and flush in new DOT3 fluid annually, the car is very light so no need for the DOT4 or higher. I have another write-up HERE for installing the rear shoes if you're interested. Once your done handling the hardware its time to go out and do the bedding procedure below:
The first thing you will notice about these W4's is the bite. The W4 is designed specifically for circuit racing and has performed flawlessly for me the past 2 years, and there is still 6mm of pad left! They are by nature a more aggressive compound, so expect to see some dust, hear some noise, and only be able to use the rotors once. These pads will wear down the rotor surface creating a lip on the edge and make some squealing noises when driving on the street. Everyone that has driven my car is blown away by the braking performance, and cant believe I'm still using OE size rotors and rear drums. The Winmax brakes have showed you don't always need a BBK, but just a really good pad set. My car recently ran back-to-back sessions at Willow Springs Raceway with 2 drivers, and not one issue arose from the brakes...or anything else really. You can see the video HERE.
If you study the chart above you'll see the circuit W4 can withstand just a bit more heat than the W3, but still have a similar profile to a "sport" style pad. You can also see here that there are many other tiers you can choose from to suit your needs. I've had nothing but powerful and reliable performance from this Winmax brake system, and I fully recommend these products to everyone. Contact a dealer in your area to order a set for yourself! Check out the video below to see exactly how the pads looked after a full autocross season and a track day.
I've installed Whiteline bushing sets on a ton of Subarus, but never on a Toyota. So naturally I had no experience in doing the job or what to expect as the end result. You can purchase these bushings from many different sources and expect to pay around $130 total for the SMALL and LARGE set. The differences are obvious right away, the rear bushing has a lot less soft material while still leaving an opening for flex. Both bushings have reduced the bolt hole in the middle to the smallest possible size, and this is probably the major reason for buying these.
This install requires the removal of the lower control arms, a press, and some patience. The Yaris ball-joint stud is hidden under the axles, so a standard removal tool will not work. I remove the lock-pin and castle nut, then pry apart the hub and control arm while hitting the hub with a hammer. Once it separates, remove the two bushing bolts and then the arm is free.
Now you need to mark the control arm where the openings line up in the big rear bushing, so that the new bushing gets pressed in the same way. The small front bushing is the hard part, there is no way to get this part of the arm into a press so you need to get some big sockets and a long bolt like this:
Once you get the original small bushing out, then apply the provided lube to the contact surfaces and push in the new Whiteline parts. Now your control arms will be ready for installation.
Installing the arms back onto the car is where it got tough for me. This kit comes with 4 locating washers for the rear bushings, and they leave no room for subframe misalignment. I had to loosen all of the subframe bolts and re-center it to get the rear bushing bolts to go back in. The rest of the install is easy, but be sure to get an alignment after.
This is where I noticed a big difference. Before installing these bushings my car always had more caster on one side, then after the bushing kit install my caster matched EXACTLY on both sides. Thats really the only thing I noticed, the car didn't feel any more harsh and it hasn't made a single noise in the 2 years Ive had them. I inspect these bushings all the time and there are no tears or deformities yet, Im very impressed with these bushings and I definitely recommend them for street and track.
The Sparco Sprint 5 was my very first racing seat, and until my first track day back in 2015 I had no idea just how good they are. Before going to Thunderhill Raceway for the first time, the only racing I had done was autocross. Back then my car wasn't exactly fast either, I was running the car in STF class with the original engine and auto transmission. The main thing I took away from driving the 5, 15 minute sessions on the track was; "my arms hurt!".
#1 - FIA Approved
When you purchase a racing seat, the idea is that you are installing it into a vehicle used for racing. (I know, crazy huh? ). There are safety testing standards a seat must meet to be approved for competition referred to as FIA . Many racing organizations require you to have your seat, restraints, suit, and other equipment meet standards similar to this. TheSprint 5 is FIA approved with fire retardant fabric and has holes for the 5th and 6th harness points.
#2 - Affordable
Most FIA approved seats are not cheap, but you can get the Sprint 5 for half the cost of any other Sparco seat. There are only a couple other FIA approved seats in this price range; The OMP FIRST and the MOMO START. Even so, the Sprint 5 is still the most affordable FIA approved seat I've found.
#3 - Easy Install
The sprint 5 has a tubular frame with 8 mounting holes for either side or bottom mounting. This means you can mount the seat directly to the base for that lowest possible seating position or attach the Sparco side mounts to dial in your perfect height or recline. If you purchase the Sparco base for your vehicle, the sliders, side mounts, and seat will all work together and result in a seamless install. You may want to contact Sparco to check availability on your specific base, mine had to be made and took 4 weeks to arrive.
Things to consider...
There are 2 size options for the Sprint, medium and large. My seat is a medium and it fits my 32inch waist perfectly, but if you have a 36inch or larger waist you may need the large. The Sprint obviously does not have a halo, so this seat may not be suitable for all types of racing. You will also need to purchase a harness to go with this seat, the factory seat belt in your car will not hold you properly while racing due to the raised bolstering at the hips and shoulders. The fabric has held up really well in the 2 years I've had it, no tears at all and it is comfortable enough for a race seat.
Overall it's a great piece and it really holds you snug in the hips and shoulders. It does not interfere with shifting, my helmet, or neck support but it is quite difficult to reach around the cabin. I recommend this seat to everyone but be sure to test fit a seat before buying it.
After Round #1 I put the car in storage and didn't touch it again until the weekend of round #2. During this time I did a LOT of research on various Limited Slip Differentials for the C60. My original plan was to purchase a "used" TRD helical differential from a UK-spec MR2, since they are so affordable and maintenance free. But that plan soon fell through when the supplier I had bookmarked sold out, then the only differentials in that price range were on Ebay...so no thanks. At this point I started looking at NEW torsion and helical differentials but that turned out to be a mistake as well since they were close to the price of a new clutch-type LSD. To top off this nonsense, all of my fellow racers that have experience with a torsion or helical differential told me the grip is nothing like that of my previous Cusco clutch-type unit. So now I've contacted Cusco again and learned that the C60 Type-RS LSD is a special order item from Japan. Of course it is. Time to save up some money....
February 18th 2018 | SCCA SDR #2
This was our second event with the C60, and like last time you will see a ton of wheel-spin. At round 2 I was a bit less anxious about the gearbox and axle combo holding up, so we focussed more on dampers and driving styles. We added another 2 clicks to the rear dampers and the lift oversteer was awesome! There was a ton of long slides and epic saves from both of us, but again Patrick bested my time by a second.
I did 3 fun-runs after the main event and committed to a "up to 3rd and drift" plan. My first 2 runs I hit cones but on my 3rd it all came together and I put down a 56.0!! That really helped my confidence since I have now been beaten twice in a row, hopefully I can remember what was learned today. Now lets see if I can keep my courage and shred tires for Round #3 on March 18th! Check out the video of round #2 below.
First, If you haven't seen our C60 6-speed swap FIRST DRIVE video go take a look real quick. The close ratios make for a very quick acceleration and shifting experience and I knew for sure we were gonna be fast at our first autocross. I had studied the gear ratio spits and made a plan to get into 3rd and stay there, keeping my speed up. That did not happen at all though.
January 28th 2018 | SCCA SDR #1
Prepared class ran very last this time, so after being on-site for 3 hours we finally got our turn to drive. It was a surprisingly hot day for January, 80's and clear was nice even for us spoiled San Diegans. I drove first to be sure the dampers were set properly and that no new issues surfaced after removing another 68 pounds from the car. On my first run I nearly spun out the car in the first high speed turn, then I struggled the rest of my runs to adapt to the car having no LSD. I was sloppy and timid, none of my plans had worked out and I felt confused. I handed the car over to Patrick and he showed progress on each run, his final run besting my time by nearly a second!
I'm fully aware that the car is slower than it was last year, and I attribute that to the lack of an LSD. In the video you will see us spinning one tire at the start and in every transition. I hesitated on installing an LSD into this C60 because I wanted to be sure the bell housing and center case swap were not going to result in any strange issues. Also, I had to be sure the Scion xD axles are going to handle the duties of racing in a chassis they're not designed for. One step at a time right, maybe after half a season with no issues I'll go ahead and buy another Cusco Type-RS LSD. In the meantime we will work on our driving and learn the tricks to being fast with the open differential. Even though we are off pace for Prepared class, the car is still a ton of fun and only requires $10 in fuel to run every event. Stay tuned for the following events and check out the video below...