Most of the racing we do here is autocross, so our car isn't really abused hard enough to warrant any type of special inspection. We usually just do a quick safety check after each autox, and then we do a proper thorough inspection bi-anually. But when it comes to track competition, the stresses on the car are much higher. You're out there pushing the car for five 15-20 minute sessions, accumulating a bunch of race miles on the car and going through a full tank of fuel.
If you search the internet there are plenty of pre-race checklists, but why not any for post-race? Isn't it better if you catch any issues right away instead of once your in planning mode for your next race?
I like to be proactive instead of reactive, so we've put together a list that should cover every area of the car and has room for you to add your own items. We've also put together a video showing some our post-race inspection practices.
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Back in 2016 shortly after I did the 2zr-fe swap into our Yaris, I sent in a oil sample to be analyzed. I ran the AMSOIL 10W40 for a full 6000 mile interval in my daily driver/weekend autocross swapped Yaris. I did not attend any track racing events during this sample, and I was not using an oil catch can yet. Another thing worth mentioning is that the car still had an automatic transmission, even though I manually shifted it when racing or doing spirited driving. I think that's all of the details so lets take a look at the sample results:
If you look at the comments you'll see they mention the viscosity is slightly low, but aside from that it's a clean sample. I thought it was strange that the Amsoil viscosity didn't hold up in a well maintained Toyota engine, but hey the sample was clean so who cares right? I decided to change my oil every 5000 miles instead and didn't take another sample for a whole year.
Fast forward to 2017 and Ive decided to run the MOBIL 1 10W40 for the sole purpose of comparing test results. We ran this oil for the entire autocross season and 1 track event with TRD cup...with 2 drivers at every event! The car is no longer a daily driver, it is only driven to races and back. It had a 5 speed manual transmission at this time, and we ran a oil catch can for the whole season. I'm not sure how many miles we put on this oil either, maybe I should log them in the future. Oh well, lets look at the sample:
Here again we have the mention of low viscosity in the comments and this oil was run for a significantly shorter time. Aside from that you can see that the wear and multi-source metals look about the same on both samples: Iron, Aluminum, Molybdenum, and Boron. The differences in additives is because these two companies use their own formulas, so there is no way to say either is better than the other. Contaminants are showing a large increase in sodium, this could mean there is a coolant leak somewhere or that could just be part of the Mobil 1 formula. Since my car has never overheated, I'm not going to worry about this unless the number goes way up next time.
There are many factors at play here, but one thing remains constant...low viscosity. Since there was no mention of fuel dilution or any other extreme contamination, I feel like both of these oil products may be inaccurate in their viscosity claims. Other than that both oils did their job and protected my engine even under constant load and high cornering forces, so I'd say these products provide the same amount of protection.
So I ask myself, "how is this possible? Why wasn't the Amsoil much better?" I'm an Amsoil dealer and I'v been using the product for 5 years, I also recommend this product to my friends and family for racing use. I've been through every section of my Amsoil Business page, and read many of the field tests performed by 3rd parties. I was convinced I was using a superior product, and so are many others.
It may be possible that these samples performed similarly because I have a safe little Toyota, maybe if I had a turbo engine or a high horsepower V8 things would be different. Maybe its because a 6000 mile interval is more stressful to the engine oil than a full year of racing(doubt it). I really have no concrete answer as to the reason these two oils yielded seemingly identical results. Maybe you can share your test results and comment your thoughts on this below....
2018 is upon us, and with a new year comes new opportunities for partnerships and experiences. Our timeline for this new year will be similar to last year, find a co-driver and attend all possible racing events. We already have a new co-driver lined up and we are very excited to have Patrick join us in the fun, he has plenty of racing experience to help us push the Yaris to new heights. We also plan to hit the ProSolo in Fontana, CA and 2 new racetracks this year; Auto Club Speedway and Streets of Willow.
As you may already know, we recently completed our C60 6 speed swap into the 2zrVios. The close-ratio nature of this transmission coupled with a 2000lb car provides quite the adrenaline rush, and we can't wait to start the testing. Aside from lots of racing, the only other plans I have for the car this year are:
1) Shave off more weight.
-The car is a ton of fun to drive as is, but we could all use a bit more speed right? I'm not interested in forced induction so I'll try to make the car lighter by removing more metal, sound deadening, and finally toss the passenger seat.
2) Fit some proper aero to the underside on the car.
-After all of the cones I've hit along the way, you can imagine the condition of my front bumper. Zip-ties and screws hold it together, and there is a large opening under the front of the car where air dams were ripped away.
3) A little more power.
-I want to finally buy a cold air intake and the light-weight crank pulley then go back to the dyno and see what the gains are. At this time my 2zrfe has only a performance exhaust header, otherwise its stock.
4) Prepare to go to a stand-alone EMS.
-I'm still running the car on and ECM from an automatic Scion xD and all of the original wiring is still in the car for the airbag system and creature comforts. I want to pull all of this extra wiring out and run only the essentials like an EMS, lights, and wipers.
I'm excited to get another year of racing in this car, and so glad all of you have stuck around to see how far we've come. I really do feel blessed to have this opportunity and team of amazing people supporting us. What I said to Matt Farah years ago during the one-take is still true to this day "its a work in progress".
For anyone interested, I'll link all of the event schedules below:
San Diego SCCA Solo
Optima Street Car
It's finally time to get our transmission installed and finish up this project so we can go out and test it! First we have to prepare the Yaris chassis to accept this C60 hybrid, and that means many rounds of test fitting. I mentioned in Part 3 to use the empty fully assembled C60 case to do all of your testing, this means bolting it to the engine and installing the driver side mount while making the marks where you need more clearance. I tried using a huge hammer and also a pneumatic hammer to no avail, I had to get out the grinder and cut metal away to make enough room for the 6 speed.
In Part 3 we are going to test fit the C60 internals into the C50 case and shoot for a final assembly. First we need to take some measurements to verify the C50 bell housing bearings are compatible with the C60 shafts and differential. Lets get started: